# Travel letter from Pontiac, Michigan Territory (steamboat trip with Joseph Smith) -- Oliver Cowdery
# Date: October 20, 1834 (Messenger and Advocate 1:1, pp. 3-6)
# Source: http://www.centerplace.org/history/ma/v1n01.htm | Provenance: Signed 'OLIVER COWDERY.', dateline Pontiac, M.T. Oct. 20, 1834. High confidence. Contains short inline Bible citations within his own argument.

Pontiac, M. T. Oct. 20, 1834.

Left Kirtland on the 16th in company with our brethren J. Smith jr. D. Whitmer, H. Smith, F. G. Williams, R. and A. Orton. At 9 in the evening we took passage on board the Steam Boat Monroe, (Whitaker Master,) at Fairport.

While waiting for the arrivel of a Boat from the east, the "Daniel Webster" came down from Detroit, and touched at the outer end of the Pier to land and receive passengers. This I suppose was sufficient to answer her advertisement-"To touch at the intermediate ports" between the former place and Buffalo. On enquiry, I was informed, that a previous misunderstanding between the citizens and crew of the Boat prevented her touching at the regular wharf. Whether this was correct or incorrect I am unable to say; but in the apparent hurry to leave the harbor she took a quantity of baggage and put out before giving time for the passengers to arrive. So much for the accommodation of men employed to manage Steam Boats upon our Lake-This was the "Daniel Webster!" After being hailed several times she put back and shipped her passengers, which seemed to amend, in a degree, the feeling which otherwise must evidently have arisen in the mind of every beholder.

Fairport is an excellent harbor, and affords a safe moorage for shipping.-Government has expended a considerable amount in extending its Piers several rods into the Lake, at the end of which a small Light House is now being finished to render the ingress of vessels more easy during the dark gales to which this Lake is subject. The main Light House is situated on a commanding eminence, and is some 60 or 70 feet from its base to its summit.

Richmond is situated up the river from Fairport about one and a half miles. These two towns are destined to become places of considerable business. Fairport probably takes the lead in forwarding, but Richmond is fast on the increase, and has several extensive stores which afford most kinds of merchandise consumed in the country, very cheap. Farmers generally find a certain market for their produce, and a large extent of country south receive their eastern merchandise at the two places.

Our progress from Grand River to Cleveland was slow, having a strong head wind, which blew, at times, almost a gale. At Cleveland we made a short stop, leaving several passengers, baggage, and merchandise.

Cleveland is a pleasantly situated town at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River, and is improving. The Canal from the south has increased its trade, and it now affords a market. The harbor is good, and was built at considerable expense.

There is an increase of population, and many foreigners of late, have taken residence in the town and vicinity-Swiss, and German. These, generally, are circumspect, peaceable, and industrious.

We left the harbor in the night, and were compelled to face a heavy wind till we arrived at Huron, mouth of Huron River. This is a small place, and, if I am not mistaken the harbor is not the best. At half past one P. M. we left the harbor and passed more swiftly, the wind having changed.-With canvass we soon passed the mouth of Sandusky Bay, (3 o'clock,) and before the Sun had set we passed between those islands which have been so often mentioned in the history of our last War with England, which reverberated with the sound of Cannon on the memorable 10th of September, 1813, when Com. Perry captured the British fleet.

At an expense of 300 killed and wounded, Perry's name is rendered great on the pages of our history.-

However dishonorable in the minds of some it may be for men to array against their fellow-men in a hostile position, I cannot stop to remove, but one thing is certain, he was acting in obedience to the requirements of his country, as well as his antagonist, (Com. Barkly,) and a regard for each ought to have stimulated them to act with the most judgment possible. These shores have been saluted with the sound of the instruments of death, and those beautiful waters have been stained with the blood of men! When, it may be asked, will nations cease to learn war, & when will men cultivate those feelings of love which the gospel of our Lord requires?

While passing this evening toward Monroe, at the mouth of the river Raisin, we held a conversation with a man calling himself Ellmer, on the subject of religion. When any thing was mentioned of the doctrine or belief of the Latter Day Saints, we could not but remark the similarity of spirit, and the uniformity of sentiment apparent in the actions and arguments of this man, with others alike ignorant. He said that he was personally acquainted with Joe Smith; had heard him preach his lies, and now, since he was dead, he was glad! In fact, he seemingly expressed more joy in this belief than any thing else which he advanced during the conversation. He said that he had heard Joe Smith preach in Bainbridge Chenango co. N. Y. five years since; he knew it to be him; that he was a dark complexioned man, &c. I was as particular to enquire his appearance, size, age, &c. as decency would admit, and found that the man was guilty of falsehood. This accounted for the warmth of his assertions when he pronounced the name "Joe Smith," and I conclude that he learned it from the popular priests of the day, who, thro' fear that their craft will be injured if their systems are compared with the truth, seek to ridicule those who teach it.

Now, that he lied, I have no hesitancy in saying, as our brother Joseph Smith Jr. had not commenced to preach five years since, neither has he ever preached in Bainbridge; and, as to the correctness of his description of his complexion I leave all who are acquainted with his person, to judge. But his bluster, (for he made no little noise,) excited the curiosity of many who crowded round, eager to assertain the cause of this "war of words." After making several assertions, and many flourishes, he gave opportunity for an answer.-He said that the Savior had not been seen since his ascension, and that any man contradicting this was a deceiver.

After obtaining liberty to speak, we informed the gentleman that, to commence, we would correct one assertion just advanced, which was, that "Christ had not appeared to any man or men since his ascension into heaven, after his resurrection." The company listened intensely, and we proceeded:-

In John's testimony we read that after Peter and John, early in the morning, had left Mary at the sepulcher, she stood without, weeping, and after she had conversed with the angels, turned round and saw Jesus standing by; that when she knew that it was the Lord, she was forbidden to touch him: "For I am not yet ascended to my Father," were his words. See John, 20:17.

The same day at evening, the Lord appeared to certain of his disciples, the doors being shut, and showed them his hands and his side; but Thomas not being present, refused to believe.-Eight days after, when they were assembled, he appeared again, and called upon Thomas to put his finger into the prints of the nails, and his hand into his side. See John, 20:26 & 27.

From these two items it is evident that Jesus was seen after his ascension, because he could not be touched on the morning of his resurrection, and eight days after called upon one of his disciples

to put his hand into his side.-And his word to Mary to say to his brethren, that he was about to ascend to his Father and their Father, his God and their God; and that he could not be touched until this was accomplished, the following account shows plainly that he had, eight days after, entered those mansions of glory where perfection dwells.

Upon this item, then, we rest the fact,-that he had ascended! because in the morning he could not be touched, (for this reason,) and eight days after, said to one, "Reach hither thy finger and behold my hands; and reach hither thy hand, and thrust it into my side"! and in another place it is said, that soon after his resurrection, as the disciples were assembled, Jesus stood in their midst, and they were "terrified and affrighted, and supposed that they had seen a spirit;" but were assured that it was the Lord, having a privilege of seeing and feeling-and pass to certain items to show that it was no secret with the saints that he was seen after his ascension. See Luke, 24:39 & 40.

Luke also says, when writing the Acts of the apostles, that Christ showed himself alive by many infallible proofs, after his resurrection, "being seen of them forty days, and speaking of the things pertaining to the kingdom of God." Peter, while preaching to the house of Cornelius, says that God did raise him "up the third day, and showed him openly; not to all the people, but unto witnesses chosen before of God, even to us, who did eat and drink with him after he rose from the dead." If this is not sufficient, remembering that he could not be touched till he ascended, we will notice a few sayings of Paul, and leave our friends to judge for themselves.

In the 5th chapter of his first epistle to the Corinthians, while speaking of the resurrection of the Lord, he says, "that he was seen of Cephas, then of the twelve: after that, he was seen of above five hundred brethren at once; of whom the greater part remain unto this present, but some are fallen asleep. After that he was seen of James; then of all the apostles. And last of all he was seen of me also, as of one born out of due time."

Now we will recollect, that after his resurrection he was seen of the disciples "forty days;" and then was seen to ascend up into heaven, and also, the angels said that he had gone to that place. We will recollect also that after this ascension the whole number of the disciples was only one hundred and twenty, and that Paul says, that he appeared to above five hundred at once, and of course, it must have been after this ascension here spoken of by Luke. After that he was seen of James; then of ALL the apostles. Paul does not end his testimony here: Stephen was certainly stoned before his (Paul's) convertion, and his last words were, that he saw the Son of Man on the right hand of God, and Paul says afterward, that he (Christ) appeared unto him. After ending these few remarks upon this item, we were prevented from making any further, as our friend Ellmer had grown quite uneasy, and also said that they were not to be found in the scriptures. He was informed, however, that if he would wait till I could go to my trunk he should have a privilege of seeing for himself, as those passages could be found in a few moments, to which I had referred. He said that he wanted nothing of my Mormon bible; that he did not believe in it, neither would he hear it.

He was informed that it was the English version of the bible, containing the Old and New Testaments, translated by order of James VI, between the years 1607 and '10. As he refused to hear our bible, he was told if he would produce one on board the Boat, I would produce those items previously named-but he refused. A gentleman present (a methodist preacher by profession) said, that any man acquainted with his bible would be ready to admit the correctness of what had been quoted.-The poor man soon found that the company discovered his ignorance, and also his anger, as he soon turned from us with a loud boast and an important swell, as another methodist priest from England had done a short time previous, after being shown the weakness of his own argument by our brother H. Smith.

How far this conversation was, or will be productive of good, I am unable to say; but by that means numbers heard, and no doubt, felt an increased anxiety to learn something further relative to this "strange work." One individual

purchased a book of Mormon, notwithstanding Mr. Ellmer's bitter cry of "Joe Smith," and "false prophets;" and will thus have a privilege of hearing the truth, though he may be separated far from those who have authority to administer the ordinances of the everlasting gospel. May heaven inspire his heart to seek diligently until he obtains a certain knowledge of the kingdom of our God in these last days!

Contention was soon hushed to silence, some assembling in little groups and conversing upon the common occurrences of the day, and others were pacing silently up and down upon the deck, as we were propelled at a rapid rate by wind and steam, while the moon, with the same majesty and beauty with which it had been adorned near six thousand years, arose as from a watery bed, to light the path of the weary traveller.

The little town of Monroe is said to be three miles from the mouth of the Raisin; but the Boat touched at a pier or dock erected several rods from the main land, and the passengers were taken from this in small boats to the shore. Several Irish and German emigrants landed at this place, with considerable heavy baggage. Some few emigrants from the state of N. Y. also landed at this point; and from appearance one would judge this to be a convenient place for those wishing to settle in the south part of the Territory, to land.

We passed up the River in the night & arrived at Detroit at 4 o'clock on the morning of the 8th. It is due Capt. Whitaker that we should here remark, that with his present accommodations, & civil & agreeable hands, he cannot fail of giving that satisfaction to every passenger which will ensure their return to his Boat, if circumstances admit.-In fact, every civil man cannot but be pleased with the happy and agreeable difference between the regulations of Boats on these waters and our southern waters. In the South one will see gamblers employed from the deck to the cabin, and each group furnished with their bottle; but on board the Monroe, I have it in my power to say, was not the case. Is it that the morals of the North are so far in advance of the South? or is it that popular prejudice has stamped this vile practice with disapprobation? Be this as it may, I am certain, that the traveller will pass his time far more agreeable where such is the regulation, than in the midst of the cards, bottles, dirks, and pistols of the South.

Detroit is a small town on the West bank of the River of the same name; is pleasantly situated, and is improving; and while the emigration continues to the middle part of the Territory, must continue. It is to be remembered that this little place has been a point of considerable military struggle, as it held the keys of protection for a large portion of our North-western frontier.-Our war with England to be sure, has passed over; but the conduct of Gov. Hull, in surrendering this post, on the 16th of August, 1812, has placed a stain upon his history, in the mind of every American, which will not be erased; and it is to be doubted, whether those who "bought him" will now justify his conduct!

After the battle of the 10th of Sept. 1813, it fell into the hands of our Government, and was re-taken by Gen. Harrison on the 29 of the same month.

It has been severely scourged this season with Cholera; and it is said that some hundreds have fallen victims to this disease. We were informed that it contains at the present, no more than 4000 inhabitants. This may be called a slow increase for two centuries; but when it is remembered that it is yet on our frontier, and that little, or no business was done here, till late, except a small trafic with the natives; & that its first inhabitants were French, it is not a matter of much astonishment. Boats and other craft generally touch at this place, on their passage to and from the upper Lakes.

A stage runs daily from Detroit to this place, though the mail but once a week. At 8 A. M. we took passage. The face of the country for several miles is low and wet, and the timber not the largest; and were one to judge as in other places, he would be led to conclude it an unhealthy part of our land.

As you pass farther, the ground is more elevated, though by no means high.

The timber on the up land is principally oak, while the low ground and

marshes afford a few small Pine with a mixture of other timber. I am informed, that larger Pine is quite abundant a distance from this.

Judging from the size of the timber and the appearance of the soil, a stranger will not consider this part of the Territory to be superior, by no means, to many parts of New York and Ohio.-I am not disposed to judge the whole Territory from the small part that I have seen, because I am informed by credible men, that it affords far better; but were one to do this, he would be left to wonder why people leave the more fertile and mild parts of Ohio, for a situation here.

Yet this country is not without its peculiarities-It abounds with Lakes covering from one to 1000 acres, which are literally filled with excellent fish. The water in these Lakes is remarkably transparent. In addition to these, the rivers emptying into the large Lakes abound with White-fish of a superior quality, and many with Salmon-trout.

Considering the newness of the country, the improved land is estimated at a grater value than would, at first, be supposed-farms of 100 acres being held at, from $800 to $1000.

Notwithstanding the diseases; (for withal it must be quite unhealthy to foreigners;) it is improving, and fast being settled; and the next session of our Congress will probably grant it a privilege of being recorded upon the annals of history, a "Free, Sovereign, and Independant State." And with the fostering care of Divine Providence, a few years might drain many of its swamps, and convert its wilderness into fruitful fields, and these haunts of wild beasts and "red men" into the abodes of civilization and peace.

OLIVER COWDERY.
